Ottantatre

The DIMIER 1738 movement (BOVET’s Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale) ideally accentuates the identity of the two houses, while perfectly meeting the demanding set of specifications jointly agreed by Pascal Raffy and Paolo Pininfarina. Tradition and avant-garde vision, technical sophistication and craftsmanship, design and Haute Horlogerie: such are the apparently antagonistic criteria that BOVET and DIMIER have succeeded in orchestrating into an entirely consistent whole.

There is certainly no doubt about the lineage of this Tourbillon OttantaTre. The 12 o’clock positioning of the crown and bow, along with the Amadeo^® system, mean that even a quick glance is enough to identify it as a BOVET watch, while the flat bezels, the black cylindrical crown and the black rubber strap immediately confirm that the OttantaTre Tourbillon belongs to the Collection by Pininfarina.

Since Pascal Raffy and his teams wished to give a new interpretation to reading the time, they developed and manufactured a tourbillon movement with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. One of the main secrets of BOVET watches does indeed lie in their development protocol. Throughout the 20th century, watchmakers became accustomed to developing movements including the desired functions and complications – and then creating the exteriors in a second phase. BOVET watchmakers and DIMIER do the exact opposite by entirely designing each new creation before finding the technical solutions to achieve the desired result. This choice, which entails far more constraints for the constructors, nonetheless guarantees the unique balance and coherence of BOVET watches.

On the OttantaTre Tourbillon, the hours are displayed in the center of the watch. The jumping-hour numerals on the disc are literally cut out from the latter. When the hour numeral to be displayed reaches its aperture, it places itself above a super-luminova dot that lights up the time. The minute and power reserve indicator hands share the same axis as the hour disc, and each travels across a segment of a circle where its respective indication is displayed in an original way. 24 times a day, the hour disc and the minute hand begin a new hour cycle by an instant jump. Complemented by the seconds hand appearing on the upper pivot of the tourbillon carriage, all the indications are positioned along the vertical axis of the watch, further underscoring the perfect symmetry of its movement. The mechanical architecture gives pride of place to transparency and is structured around straight lines forming a taut, angular whole. The tensions of this distinctive geometry are resolved in the curves of the case, testifying to the brilliant ability to “square the circle” demonstrated in equal measure by the Pininfarina designers and by the watchmakers of BOVET 1822 and DIMIER 1738.

Clothed in a case incorporating the convertible Amadeo^® system, the second face of the OttantaTre Tourbillon indicates the hours and minutes via two conventional hands. That means there are five distinct indications sharing the same axis and spread across the two faces of this tourbillon watch. A particularly remarkable feat, especially in that this impressive concentration has not made this new calibre unduly thick.